Replacing worn out overlaminate rolls gives me a high feeling of anxiety. The pellicle is a fine membrane that has to go through the machine with a strict accuracy that does not allow any error.
My fifteen years of experience in the adhesive industry have watched how easily label converters and huge wholesale operations fail to make this transition and destroy print runs costing millions of dollars to run. I am not able to sleep at night because of the risk of uneven tension belt. With re-webbing a new film on the rollers, the adhesive material is very vulnerable to wrinkling. To be able to turn raw printed material into a long-lasting sticker, it is necessary to align the core perfectly. The failure to calculate the mandrels correctly even slightly will cause an immediate breakage of the equipment.
How to use a cold lamination sheet?
The relocation between an old and a new web makes me feel very excited after fifteen years of work on adhesives at VIZLENT. The process of replacing an empty roll with a fresh cold overlaminate requires accuracy. The virgin pellicle needs to pass over the nip rollers and in planar orientation to the substrate. Unwrapping the release liner is a stressful task, and untimely tacking is a nightmare to B2B label converters.
Once the viscid layer has been pinned down, smooth the edge with a rigid squeegee to remove all the air. The applicator should be moved in smooth circles to remove oxygen bubbles before they destroy the print job. The success of the sticky sheet sticking without any trouble to the fresh sheet is a great pleasure to me, and the hassle of thermal equipment is not required.
Which is better, hot or cold lamination?
I have fifteen years of adhesive engineering experience at VIZLENT, so I tend to argue between thermal and pressure-sensitive encapsulation. Hot lamination is dangerous as the melting EVA resin and metal mandrels may burn. I would rather use cold overlaminate webs they are safer and more suited to B2B printing houses and wholesale label converters.
Cold application maintains fragile synthetic substrates, which would otherwise bend under heat. Although hot processes may offer a somewhat stiffer wrap to bulk paper stock, cold pressure rollers are mechanically easier, and do not have warm-up delays. They are more efficient in protecting fragile, UV-vulcanizing prints and lower maintenance than heating elements.
Can I laminate with my heat press?
Since I have fifteen years of experience in adhesive work at VIZLENT, I am not comfortable with a garment heat press lamination method. Standard heat press Melting thermal encasements is dangerous; the PET carrier film can melt when subjected to strong compression.
Although this could be a shortcut attempted by some operators, B2B printing houses and wholesale label converters require edge-to-edge accuracy that is achievable through a dedicated laminator. Heat press would lead to fusing of polymeric substrates with the heating element to create a sticky mess and a cloudy, bubbled finish. The only sure way of defending high outputs is via proper roll equipment.
How to remove film from laminating machine?
In the case of the huge steel rollers, my anxiety levels are extreme because I have spent fifteen years of my life troubleshooting at VIZLENT. Errors during the extraction process cause sticky residue which I dislike.The first is to make sure that the main nip pressure is disengaged. When the tension is not removed, the used PET carrier web may also be torn, and whole sale partners and B2B label converters will get frustrated.
Use a safety blade to cut the overlaminate in a straight line, and then roll the exhausted roll in reverse off the supply shaft. I am happy when the adhesive comes off the silicone mandrels without a struggle. The internal parts of the machine should be handled carefully and the following batch of synthetic substrates must be kept clean. Do not jerk the pellicle violently–it will bring about expensive mechanical breakdowns.
What can I use instead of a laminator?
One of the tools that can become your most important tool is a hand squeegee, provided that you do not use motorized calenders. The thought of gluing a transparent overlaminate to a surface by hand is thrilling. In the case of B2B partners of VIZLENT, I will recommend the dense rubber squeegee in case of machine failure. Hold the handle firmly and press firmly in order to avoid silvering.
During my fifteen years of experience, I have witnessed the struggle of the wholesalers to find an appropriate Teflon applicator and the resultant ruined batches. When a damaged decal is used with a straightedge, a thick acrylic straightedge can be used to salvage the damaged decal. Although there is no substitute to the consistency of heavy industrial equipment, a handy squeegee is a good backup.
